Zone Rouge: the part of France where nobody can live… but you’re allowed to visit!

When we think about areas that were once inhabited but had to be abandoned forever due to some kind of disaster, our minds usually go to the nuclear disasters of Chernobyl, in Ukraine, or Fukushima, in Japan.

However, there is another place that falls within the same category, and not that far away from us. Spanning around 170 square kilometers where no permanent human presence is allowed, the so-called Zone Rouge, in France, suffered irreversible damage from one of the most devastating battles in World War I.

The Battle of Verdun

Back in 1916, the Battle of Verdun lasted for 300 long days, with the French and German armies locked in a fierce conflict. Countless artillery shells were fired during those months, leaving the region completely destroyed.

Even in times of peace, this area was heavily militarized due to its proximity to the Belgian border, as approximately 66.000 soldiers used to be stationed there. Since there were so many mouths to feed, the land was extensively used for agriculture, and therefore sustained many different villages and towns.

At the end of the war, the French government deemed that cleaning up the area was simply too costly, and decided to relocate the residents who had lived in the zone before the war, leaving behind entire abandoned communities.

The Zone Rouge today

At the current rate, experts estimate that it would take approximately 300 years to fully restore the area and make it suitable for human life again. However, that doesn’t mean the zone is completely deserted, as local residents and nearby businesses continue to make use of the Zone Rouge for hunting and sourcing natural resources for the timber industry. Surprisingly, there is also a growing tourism industry!

Despite the presence of undetonated explosives and chemicals in the soil, nature has thrived and reclaimed the former battlefield. However, there are still two small areas within the zone where the concentration of arsenic (an extremely toxic element) is so high (reaching up to 17% of soil composition) that it’s nearly impossible for 99% of plants to survive.

In an interview for National Geographic, historian Christina Holstein emphasizes that an area with such minimal human activity over the past century, coupled with its pivotal historical events, will always hold a special allure, generating immense interest and fascination among visitors.

Visiting the Zone Rouge

Despite being uninhabited, the Zone Rouge is accessible for visitors with relative ease. Considering it is a memorial site, there are plenty of monuments paying tribute to the sacrifices made during the war. Take, for instance, the village of Craonne, which was utterly devastated in 1917. Today, a village bearing the same name might exist elsewhere, but the ruins of the original Craonne were incorporated into the Zone Rouge. Today, there are several marked trails leading to these remnants and a specially constructed platform offering a bird’s-eye view of the former battlefield.

Another significant attraction open to visitors is the Fort of Douaumont, one among the many forts constructed prior to the war for the defense of Verdun. Initially captured by the German army just six days into the battle, this fort eventually found itself under French control again after eight arduous months enduring relentless bombardment. Now meticulously restored, the fort has been transformed into a museum, passionately narrating the story of the historic Battle of Verdun.

Close by, you may also visit the abandoned village of Fleury-devant-Douaumont, one of the nine villages entirely razed and abandoned in the aftermath of the war (the others being Beaumont-en-Verdunois, Bezonvaux, Cumières-le-Mort-Homme, Douaumont, Haumont-près-Samogneux, Louvemont-Côte-du-Poivre, Ornes and Vaux-devant-Damloup). Despite having been abandoned, these villages maintain their official status as municipalities, with nominated presidents overseeing the budget of memorial sites and management of visitor facilities. All of them remain open to the public.

Naturally, caution must be exercised when exploring the region. Due to contamination and unexploded devices, visitors are advised to stay on designated paths at all times and refrain from consuming water or fruits sourced from the area. Just in case, those interested in visiting might be better off by joining a knowledgeable tour guide!